Laney VA 100 head and VA50 combo

dscf3156

This is kind of a rarity. Came in between Klipps and Pro-tube series as far as I know, have asked Laney on FB if they can confirm anything.

dscf3160

Decent sized iron. Still the crappy rotary switches.

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PCB with more stuff mounted on it that the Pro Tubes, guess they figured it wasn’t such a great idea.

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Top side.

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Combo version, different chassis, cut outs and angled front.

dscf3177

dscf3182

McKenzie speakers. Burman briefly used these, kind of premium items, few Burman similarities/influences on these amps, see Pro Series amps.

Unabused Sound City 120 PA

This arrived and I had it apart so fast I forgot to photo it in the sleeve and with original cover.

Most of the knobs still there.

Reasonable guts.

Loads of pre valves to run all the channels.

Sad broken Mullard, bit of a pain to get tout the socket since the glass bit was cracked all round the bottom.

Also was given this, some problem with the power section, dude bought a new one as had stuff to do rather than fix it.

Any guidance as to how to start fixing it would be appreciated. I’m probably going to start by opening it and putting all of its parts in the way while I stare at it and drink cups of tea.

Laney AOR Protube 100 guts, cleaner Ormat cab, Heathfield little amp

Scrubbed a lot more paint off the Ormat cab, made a mess by spraying paint bits up the wall doing it whilst drunk, bad plan.

Mate’s Laney Protube AOR 100w head is playing up, fading out whilst in use. Not spotting anything obvious, but suspecting tired preamp valves. Here’s the guts, since guess that is what most of you come for:

Sensible PCB with nothing mechanical mounted to it, decent sized iron, adds up to an underrated amp. They are going up though. Buy now to avoid disappointment.

Also picked up this little thing for interest, Heathfield 4 channel amp:

Looks oldschool.

Neat and simple guts.

Here is the fun part, no output transformer. Output transformer-less designs were the in thing for a while, but too many compromises. I could learn about it all, but I don’t really think it would be that useful to me. Just a curiosity. Some smart sorts read this and might be able to contribute more, comment and ask.

These and various other items for sale on Ebay: Click right here

Wasn’t just that valve base at issue with the Sound City 120

Still fighting with that SC120, after replacing the pre valve base, still not behaving. There was also another replaced base, for a power valve. And when looked at from the right angle, turns out they id a rubbish job of that too:

See how the connection to pin 1 is actually just two solder blobs touching each other, kind of hidden under the fuses. The rest of the soldering is pretty suspect too, redid all of that. See if it works in daytime.

Also been sorting out this near pristine example:

All original valves, most of its caps too, kind of itching to replace those because they won’t be at their best by now, the valves all still test good though. It had exploded its bias cap at some point, someone has replace it with a floating radial one, and not bothered tidying up the remnants of the old one, so sorted that an put a new axial one in which should be more reliable since it won’t be bouncing around and fatiguing its legs. Thick layer of dust came off it too, revealing the finish on the chassis that was as intended, which I hadn’t seen before thanks to the damp places my other ones had been stored in.

Working on the Klipp

Plenty wrong with this, once I’d pulled out the valves (appear to be all original Mazdas), had a dust and a proper look underneath. Definitely plenty of history, lots of different resistors and caps. Main thing was the 8+8uf caps in place of 33s (see previous Klipp pics). So they needed replacing with some I have in stock.

Two totally not attached legs on the dual caps. Obviously soldered in one, then stuck the other to it once in place, and the spring and dry joint detached them shortly after. Look out for this because if it stays stuck, the spring in it flicks a bit of molten solder off when it melts. Right way is to attach them together, then install.

First new cap went in fine. Second one, when I sucked the solder out of the tube the legs is in, I hear the ping of wires freeing themselves:

This has dropped off the bottom of the turret. Ballache, ’cause now I have to get the whole board out to put it back. Held in by a bunch of nuts on the board side, all easy to get at but small. Only two wires needed to come off to free it, which is a huge relief, not like the Carlsbros where it is all the controls that need to come off. In case someone ends up doing the same and needs a reference to put it back, here they are:

The red one, and:

this green one that comes off the transformer and is very tight, and pretty thin, likely one to pull off accidentally.

Looking a bunch tidier than it was, but I didn’t line the caps up too neatly now I look. Biggest remaining issue is the big silver dual that is glued down to various components under it. Also weird is the blobs of grease on the power valve bases, great for attracting the sort of dirt that causes arcing, cleaned that off, cleaned sockets, need to fit the IEC socket an secure the lead better inside, the old cable tie type thing isn’t up to the job.