Wilsic 100w two channel head


Styling in between the previous Wilsic and Miles Platting amps I’ve had. Apparently a fairly early model.


Poor cap job. Just rattling about loose on the wires.


Guts, not as tidy as previous one, but more stuff has been done in here. Not sure if snubbers on the rectifier actually does anything in the audible range.


Orange OR120SL Slave


Picked up as a fixer, no sleeve, been in a shed, think the sleeve rotted. Has the same PCB as an OR120 so could be converted fairly readily, but some people want it as a slave so prob just a fix up.


Choke and fair sized iron.


PCB with the OR120 parts unpopulated.


Wire broken off the end of a filter cap, soldered back on, and failed again.

Plenty molested Sound City B120

Ebay score. But the amp that turned up isn’t the one described in the listing

Different logo, this one is also painted red. And the listing says: “I had this amplifier professionally re-conditioned a few years ago and it has hardly been used since

 It was re-wired and all new valves and components fitted and works very well as a result”
It was loaded with a mix of Mullards and Mazda power valves, and Brimar, Pinnacle and Mazda power valves, none newer than maybe the 80s. And inside, the all new wiring looked like this:
Looks like mostly original wiring and a bunch of bodges to me. Hot glued old caps, and nasty earth soldering. Best is this though:
Amp works but breaks up too easily in a nasty way, sounds like a sucky valve. gotta see what the guy says via ebay before doing much with it.

Unabused Sound City 120 PA

This arrived and I had it apart so fast I forgot to photo it in the sleeve and with original cover.

Most of the knobs still there.

Reasonable guts.

Loads of pre valves to run all the channels.

Sad broken Mullard, bit of a pain to get tout the socket since the glass bit was cracked all round the bottom.

Also was given this, some problem with the power section, dude bought a new one as had stuff to do rather than fix it.

Any guidance as to how to start fixing it would be appreciated. I’m probably going to start by opening it and putting all of its parts in the way while I stare at it and drink cups of tea.

Working on the Klipp

Plenty wrong with this, once I’d pulled out the valves (appear to be all original Mazdas), had a dust and a proper look underneath. Definitely plenty of history, lots of different resistors and caps. Main thing was the 8+8uf caps in place of 33s (see previous Klipp pics). So they needed replacing with some I have in stock.

Two totally not attached legs on the dual caps. Obviously soldered in one, then stuck the other to it once in place, and the spring and dry joint detached them shortly after. Look out for this because if it stays stuck, the spring in it flicks a bit of molten solder off when it melts. Right way is to attach them together, then install.

First new cap went in fine. Second one, when I sucked the solder out of the tube the legs is in, I hear the ping of wires freeing themselves:

This has dropped off the bottom of the turret. Ballache, ’cause now I have to get the whole board out to put it back. Held in by a bunch of nuts on the board side, all easy to get at but small. Only two wires needed to come off to free it, which is a huge relief, not like the Carlsbros where it is all the controls that need to come off. In case someone ends up doing the same and needs a reference to put it back, here they are:

The red one, and:

this green one that comes off the transformer and is very tight, and pretty thin, likely one to pull off accidentally.

Looking a bunch tidier than it was, but I didn’t line the caps up too neatly now I look. Biggest remaining issue is the big silver dual that is glued down to various components under it. Also weird is the blobs of grease on the power valve bases, great for attracting the sort of dirt that causes arcing, cleaned that off, cleaned sockets, need to fit the IEC socket an secure the lead better inside, the old cable tie type thing isn’t up to the job.