Figured would be nice to compare to the previous one.
New one at the top, different textured finish. pull brights on the master volumes for each channel, and the other pull knobs relabeled.
Inside, looks like they got stingy with the capacitors. Chunky iron, and there is a date sticker on the choke saying 1991.
Guts look really tidy. No sign of those caps though, kinda expected to be on sides of chassis.
My mate’s in Sonance borrowed some of my amps and cabs for recording yesterday:
Only use one amp, but tried both for tones.
Yep, that’s a Behringer, and he used it instead of the Carlsbro, because it did the tone he was after, valve amps aren’t always the way.
Going into those booths after loads of valves had been toasting the air for a few hours was pretty unpleasant.
Ebay score. But the amp that turned up isn’t the one described in the listing
Different logo, this one is also painted red. And the listing says: “I had this amplifier professionally re-conditioned a few years ago and it has hardly been used since
It was re-wired and all new valves and components fitted and works very well as a result”
It was loaded with a mix of Mullards and Mazda power valves, and Brimar, Pinnacle and Mazda power valves, none newer than maybe the 80s. And inside, the all new wiring looked like this:
Looks like mostly original wiring and a bunch of bodges to me. Hot glued old caps, and nasty earth soldering. Best is this though:
Amp works but breaks up too easily in a nasty way, sounds like a sucky valve. gotta see what the guy says via ebay before doing much with it.
This arrived and I had it apart so fast I forgot to photo it in the sleeve and with original cover.
Most of the knobs still there.
Loads of pre valves to run all the channels.
Sad broken Mullard, bit of a pain to get tout the socket since the glass bit was cracked all round the bottom.
Also was given this, some problem with the power section, dude bought a new one as had stuff to do rather than fix it.
Any guidance as to how to start fixing it would be appreciated. I’m probably going to start by opening it and putting all of its parts in the way while I stare at it and drink cups of tea.
Heated yo the broken screw in the neck with the soldering iron until there was a hot wood smell, let it cool and got it out with some pliers. New ones in with some vaseline on and all good.
Quick job today, bit of solid state amp work which isn’t my usual thing, but it was an Ashdown belonging to guitarist in a mate’s band, and in my experience Ashdown amps have been easy to work on and Ashdown have always been very helpful when it came to parts and pointers when I’ve been in touch with them.
Screws not in as I took this after sorting the issues, but nice open layout, preamp and power sections well spaced so no interference or hot things cooking anything else, everything nice and accessible. Mesa and Ampeg could learn from this. Board mount everything though as is a cheap amp.
Bunches of dry/cracked joints here was the problem, resulting in a lack of apparent power and cutting out. Suspicion its the extra vibration as well as power demand that triggers it when being loud. Resoldered them all, screwed it back in, cleaned off the thermal paste that I managed to cover myself in, good to go.
With all the being too busy thought I’d do a chill assembling a bass this evening. Didn’t work out like that. Beer instead then.
Neck screw snapped off int he neck. Rubbish. Lots left poking out so should come out if I clamp it in the vice or something.
Charis, in model mode this time, on an amp. Taken by Steve Layton.
Not so much going on for blog purposes because involved in another project that is woodworkier, and as yet not very photogenic.