Plenty wrong with this, once I’d pulled out the valves (appear to be all original Mazdas), had a dust and a proper look underneath. Definitely plenty of history, lots of different resistors and caps. Main thing was the 8+8uf caps in place of 33s (see previous Klipp pics). So they needed replacing with some I have in stock.
Two totally not attached legs on the dual caps. Obviously soldered in one, then stuck the other to it once in place, and the spring and dry joint detached them shortly after. Look out for this because if it stays stuck, the spring in it flicks a bit of molten solder off when it melts. Right way is to attach them together, then install.
First new cap went in fine. Second one, when I sucked the solder out of the tube the legs is in, I hear the ping of wires freeing themselves:
This has dropped off the bottom of the turret. Ballache, ’cause now I have to get the whole board out to put it back. Held in by a bunch of nuts on the board side, all easy to get at but small. Only two wires needed to come off to free it, which is a huge relief, not like the Carlsbros where it is all the controls that need to come off. In case someone ends up doing the same and needs a reference to put it back, here they are:
The red one, and:
this green one that comes off the transformer and is very tight, and pretty thin, likely one to pull off accidentally.
Looking a bunch tidier than it was, but I didn’t line the caps up too neatly now I look. Biggest remaining issue is the big silver dual that is glued down to various components under it. Also weird is the blobs of grease on the power valve bases, great for attracting the sort of dirt that causes arcing, cleaned that off, cleaned sockets, need to fit the IEC socket an secure the lead better inside, the old cable tie type thing isn’t up to the job.